Treating an earth pond isn't that different from treating your water garden. Initially you should take some time to figure out what is causing the problem. Is there not enough aeration, is the pond in full sun with no plant life, do you have a muck build up due to falling leaves? The following components will all work together to improve water quality and help control aquatic growth:
Aeration -
Aeration is essential to a clear pond. Aerators and fountains will help maintain higher oxygen levels in the pond, aerators help particularly near the bottom allowing organic materials to decompose instead of accumulate. Aerating the water will allow beneficial bacteria to work faster at digesting the nutrients in the pond. Moving water will not allow mosquitos to breed like stagnant water
Bacteria - Adding beneficial bacteria to your pond is extremely helpful in removing excess nutrients built up in the muck. The muck at the bottom of the pond contributes to weed and algae growth. Beneficial bacteria will digest the muck.
Chemical Control - One of the most common forms of treatment for a natural pond is the use of safe aquatic chemicals. Most of these products are safe for humans, fish and pets when used in accordance with the label. Be sure to read and follow all instructions on the manufacturers label. Of course chemicals alone will not solve the problem. In fact, using either aeration, bacteria or chemicals alone will not usually solve the problem. These products used together are very effective at reducing problems, reducing future maintenance and improving water quality.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Light up the night
Pond lighting for all budgets
Pond lighting has come a long way in the last couple of years. We've gone from having only submersible halogen lights to having the choice of halogen, LED and Fiber Optic. There are low voltage lights and solar lights, submersed lights, external lights, floating lights, spotlights, pinpoint lights & even rope lights. All make great additions to your pond viewing pleasure. With all these choices it makes it difficult to know what would work best in your pond. What you decide to use will depend on what you are trying to achieve, if you are Eco-conscious and of course, how much you want to invest. Here is a comparison of some of the most popular choices.
Halogen lights:
These are the most economical lights as far as initial purchase. They are available in a variety of wattage sizes including 10w, 20w, 50w up to 150w, are low voltage, can be simple white light or add a colored lens for special effect, can be purchased singly or in sets and with or without a transformer or photocell. For a small pond these are great. You can purchase a small kit with three 10w lights, timer and photo cell for around $60. Halogen bulbs do not last long so you will have to reach into the water to change the bulb, be careful to make sure the light cap is on securely otherwise water will enter the light & blow the bulb again.
LED:
Newer technology that can be used submersed or external. Place them under a waterfall or in a tree pointing down at the falls. Most companies offer only white light but some, like Alpine, offer color and color changing LED. They also come in a variety of wattage sizes and are available with or without transformers. The upside is that the bulb will not only last longer it will use less wattage when compared to the halogen. For example a 1.5watt LED is comparable to a 10W Halogen and a 3watt LED is expected to last approximately 50,000 hours while the 20w Halogen last only 2000 hours. LED is a bit more expensive than the halogen for initial purchase but will cost less to run and maintain.
Solar:
These are great if you don't have electric available near your pond. You can find small decorative floating lights or elaborate systems with separate solar panels.
Fiber Optic:
This is the grand daddy of pond lighting. What makes this light source unique is that it uses one single light bulb (halogen or halide) in a box that sits outside the pond making it easy to change the bulb . Up to sixteen separate fiber optic light cables are bundled together at one end into a common fitting and placed in front of the light source. Light shines into the end of the fiber optic cables, travels through the cables, and out the other end, illuminating whatever the designer wishes to light up. Light fixtures as small as a pen cap attached to the end of the cables can be placed underwater, next to the water, in between rocks, or almost anywhere in or out of the pond. No heat or electricity travels through the fibers, making fiber safe for many environments. A color wheel can be placed between the light source and the fiber to create single or changing colored light. Of course, this is also the most expensive option with small 4 light kits starting around $750.00 but boy is it beautiful.
Pond lighting has come a long way in the last couple of years. We've gone from having only submersible halogen lights to having the choice of halogen, LED and Fiber Optic. There are low voltage lights and solar lights, submersed lights, external lights, floating lights, spotlights, pinpoint lights & even rope lights. All make great additions to your pond viewing pleasure. With all these choices it makes it difficult to know what would work best in your pond. What you decide to use will depend on what you are trying to achieve, if you are Eco-conscious and of course, how much you want to invest. Here is a comparison of some of the most popular choices.
Halogen lights:
These are the most economical lights as far as initial purchase. They are available in a variety of wattage sizes including 10w, 20w, 50w up to 150w, are low voltage, can be simple white light or add a colored lens for special effect, can be purchased singly or in sets and with or without a transformer or photocell. For a small pond these are great. You can purchase a small kit with three 10w lights, timer and photo cell for around $60. Halogen bulbs do not last long so you will have to reach into the water to change the bulb, be careful to make sure the light cap is on securely otherwise water will enter the light & blow the bulb again.
LED:
Newer technology that can be used submersed or external. Place them under a waterfall or in a tree pointing down at the falls. Most companies offer only white light but some, like Alpine, offer color and color changing LED. They also come in a variety of wattage sizes and are available with or without transformers. The upside is that the bulb will not only last longer it will use less wattage when compared to the halogen. For example a 1.5watt LED is comparable to a 10W Halogen and a 3watt LED is expected to last approximately 50,000 hours while the 20w Halogen last only 2000 hours. LED is a bit more expensive than the halogen for initial purchase but will cost less to run and maintain.
Solar:
These are great if you don't have electric available near your pond. You can find small decorative floating lights or elaborate systems with separate solar panels.
Fiber Optic:
This is the grand daddy of pond lighting. What makes this light source unique is that it uses one single light bulb (halogen or halide) in a box that sits outside the pond making it easy to change the bulb . Up to sixteen separate fiber optic light cables are bundled together at one end into a common fitting and placed in front of the light source. Light shines into the end of the fiber optic cables, travels through the cables, and out the other end, illuminating whatever the designer wishes to light up. Light fixtures as small as a pen cap attached to the end of the cables can be placed underwater, next to the water, in between rocks, or almost anywhere in or out of the pond. No heat or electricity travels through the fibers, making fiber safe for many environments. A color wheel can be placed between the light source and the fiber to create single or changing colored light. Of course, this is also the most expensive option with small 4 light kits starting around $750.00 but boy is it beautiful.
Help my fish are acting funny!
Spring is here; time to enjoy our ponds again. It is also the perfect time to spring clean your pond. As the weather outside warms up so does the water in the pond waking up the anaerobic bacteria and parasites that feast on the decaying leaves and muck that have accumulated on the bottom of the pond. Anaerobic bacteria will cause fowl odors, yellow or foamy water. Off colored water is not the only reason to spring-clean your pond, your Koi’s health depends on it. There are several signs that Koi will exhibit when water quality is bad or if there is a parasite problem. Here are just a few signs to watch for that is not normal Koi behavior.
Laying Over, setting on the bottom acting lethargic:
Fish seem to be lying on their sides until you disturb them, then they will swim a bit but go back to lying over or if they stay at the bottom this is a sign of stress. It could be parasites but most likely, it is poor water quality. Best treatment is a water change (be sure to add dechlorinator) and salt treatment.
Hanging or Gasping at the surface
Another sign of stress, as with a too low pH or not enough dissolved oxygen. If you see the fish hanging at the surface or if they have a milky film over them perform a major water change immediately, the pH is too low. The water change should bring the pH level to normal but you may need to add a stabilizer or pH puck to keep the pH level consistent. Gasping at the surface usually means there is not enough dissolved oxygen in the water. Poor water quality will also affect oxygen levels. Once again, a water change and salting would be in order, adding bubblers or a pump to help circulate the water.
Flashing, jumping and scratching:
You know your fish, if they do not normally display this kind of behavior then you can assume there is a parasite issue. Perform a water change and add salt. If the behavior does not change an over the counter parasite medicine should be added to the pond.
Swimming by itself, swimming head down or popeye, bloated fish
These are signs of a bacterial infections. If you see a fish swimming alone staying away from the rest of your fish, not eating or swimming with his head down these are early warnings of an infection. Treat the water with an anti-bacterial medication and get antibiotic food to him. If you notice the eyes bulging or the entire body bloated, the scales seem to be sticking straight out then it is most likely too late for this fish. Remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, in other words clean your pond, perform a water change or at the very least test the water before your fish starting acting up.
Laying Over, setting on the bottom acting lethargic:
Fish seem to be lying on their sides until you disturb them, then they will swim a bit but go back to lying over or if they stay at the bottom this is a sign of stress. It could be parasites but most likely, it is poor water quality. Best treatment is a water change (be sure to add dechlorinator) and salt treatment.
Hanging or Gasping at the surface
Another sign of stress, as with a too low pH or not enough dissolved oxygen. If you see the fish hanging at the surface or if they have a milky film over them perform a major water change immediately, the pH is too low. The water change should bring the pH level to normal but you may need to add a stabilizer or pH puck to keep the pH level consistent. Gasping at the surface usually means there is not enough dissolved oxygen in the water. Poor water quality will also affect oxygen levels. Once again, a water change and salting would be in order, adding bubblers or a pump to help circulate the water.
Flashing, jumping and scratching:
You know your fish, if they do not normally display this kind of behavior then you can assume there is a parasite issue. Perform a water change and add salt. If the behavior does not change an over the counter parasite medicine should be added to the pond.
Swimming by itself, swimming head down or popeye, bloated fish
These are signs of a bacterial infections. If you see a fish swimming alone staying away from the rest of your fish, not eating or swimming with his head down these are early warnings of an infection. Treat the water with an anti-bacterial medication and get antibiotic food to him. If you notice the eyes bulging or the entire body bloated, the scales seem to be sticking straight out then it is most likely too late for this fish. Remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, in other words clean your pond, perform a water change or at the very least test the water before your fish starting acting up.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
